Showing posts with label Europe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Europe. Show all posts
Saturday, 29 September 2012
Opera in Vienna
One of the highlights in Vienna is seeing an opera performance at the State Opera House. Even if you're not into opera the interior of the building is worth seeing. It's in excellent condition and makes you feel as if you've stepped back in time into the gilded age. For a mere 3 EUR you can get standing room tickets and enjoy the show. There is a dress code however: don't wear shorts. And do wear comfortable shoes, the standing will wear you down. The State Opera House is located at the "Opera" U-Bahn (metro) station and there's an opera performance on nearly every night.
Tuesday, 18 September 2012
Old Town Square, Prague
The astronomical clock (the tower on the left) does a little show every hour on the hour and lasts about 1.5 minutes. Personally, I thought it was a bit disappointing and not worth waiting for. Some figurines out of doors in the clock and someone plays a trumpet from the top of the tower. But if you happen to be near the clock on the hour then it's worth having a look.
Friday, 7 September 2012
Szechenyi Bath and Spa, Budapest
Szechenyi Bath and Spa in Budapest is the most amazing bath I've ever been to. It's build into a historic building and features a massive outdoor swimming pool and loads of different heated pools indoors. Going from bath to ice pool to sauna and back again is an invigorating and healing experience. It's hard to believe that after a whole day of lounging in the different spa pools I was knackered! The spa is located a few hundred metres beyond Heroes Square in the City Park and the entrance fee is 3400 HUF (~15 USD). If you spend the day here it's definitely worth the fee. For more info: http://www.szechenyibath.com/
Sunday, 2 September 2012
Krakow's Market Square
Krakow's Market Square is the heart of the old city. Thankfully it wasn't destroyed by the Nazis during the war and today it's buzzing with tourists snapping photos and sipping coffee at the many outdoor cafes. Due to its tourist allure, you won't see many locals hanging out around here...
Saturday, 18 August 2012
The "Is This Your Ring?" Scam in Paris
| The approximate location where she tried to scam me. |
Labels:
Europe,
France,
Paris,
Scams and Touts
Location:
Göteborg, Sweden
The Traditional Cheese Market in Gouda
In Gouda, they still do things the old-fashioned way. Not only do the
participants wear traditional outfits, they also do business the old way
too through a process of negotiating while slapping each other's hands.
I'm not sure what the history is behind the hand slapping but what I
found most interesting is that they are actually doing business even
though it all seems like a tourist gimmick.
Monday, 13 August 2012
A Hippie Oasis in the Middle of Copenhagen
Imagine a place where everyone is chilled out. People are smoking weed or drinking beer everywhere you look. On benches, on the street, in cafes, next to the lake. It's all good. But this place actually exists and it's right in the middle of Copenhagen. Welcome to Christania. Established in the 1960's as a "free" city there are tenuous links to Copenhagen proper but this haven is entirely self-governing. There's Green Square where the dealers set up lemonade-stand like stalls to sell their wares and lined by cafes where one can sit and enjoy a blunt and some food or drink. There's the beautiful lakeside where you can sit on the grass, have a doobie, listen to some music, and soak in the fresh THC-tinged air. The whole place has a relaxed atmosphere and acts as the perfect counter-balance to the bustling city. But don't take any pictures anywhere near Green Square or you might meet some very unpleasant people. For more info: wikitravel.org/en/Copenhagen/Christiania
| One of the few things you are allowed to photograph in Christiania. |
Labels:
Copenhagen,
Denmark,
Europe
Location:
Gothenburg, Sweden
Friday, 3 August 2012
The View from Aiguille du Midi at 3842m
For EUR 45 you can ride the Aiguille du Midi cable car in Chamonix and experience an incredible view of Mont Blanc from up close. After queuing for a bit, you are zipped up to 3842m. At the top there are several viewing platforms, a small cafe, and a gift shop. The views at the top are well worth the price. And judging from the hordes of tourists that ride it, the word is out.
Labels:
Europe,
France,
Mont Blanc
Location:
Hamburg, Germany
Wednesday, 1 August 2012
Dutch Toilet Design Ethos: Admire your work?
A standard "Western"
toilet has a bowl that is shaped like a funnel with a small pool of
water (let's call this the outflow pool) at the bottom which is positioned close to
the centre of the bowl. Or better yet, it's positioned close to where your poop will land. When flushed, water flows from top to bottom,
pushing anything on the sides of the bowl to the outflow pool.
| The "resting pool" is in the centre. Just imagine a giant pile of poop there. |
The older style Dutch toilets, however,
have a very peculiar shape. The outflow pool is at the very
front of the bowl and there is a small platform with a small
catchment of water (let's call this the resting pool) which dominates
the bowl. The platform is positioned in exactly where your poop lands so that when you have a #2, all your excrement lands in the resting
pool and stays there till flushed. Because the resting pool is so
small, it's as if your poop is sitting on a pedestal so that you can
admire your work. When flushed, most of the water comes from the back
of the toilet to push whatever is in the resting pool to the outflow
pool. I will admit, it's interesting to see your poop in a small pile rather than floating in water. I admired it before I flushed. Having it sit on the pedestal makes it look a lot more extravagant than when it's floating in the outflow pool. But if the Dutch do admire their work, they certainly don't talk about it. I, on the other hand, would definitely boast about the size of my dump from the previous day and how it looked on the shit pedestal. It was grand.
Labels:
Europe,
The Netherlands
Location:
Hamburg, Germany
Monday, 30 July 2012
The Most Epic Road Trip Ever. 23 Years. 800000 Kilometres.
This man is my new inspiration. From the BBC:
"Back in 1989, as the Berlin Wall fell, Gunther Holtorf and his wife Christine set out on what was meant to be an 18-month tour of Africa in their Mercedes Benz G Wagen. Now, with more than 800,000km (500,000 miles) on the clock, Gunther is still going.
The German former airline executive has travelled the equivalent of 20 times around the planet in the vehicle - which he calls Otto. He says he has never had a serious breakdown."
![]() |
Subject to copyright. Photography by Gunther Holtorf and David Lemke.
|
Location:
Utrecht, The Netherlands
Friday, 27 July 2012
The Louvre Pyramid
The Louvre Pyramid serves as the main entrance to the museum and also makes for a nice juxtaposition to the rest of the palatial building and grounds. It's basically a glass and metal (steel?) pyramid sitting in the middle of the main courtyard to the complex. Unsurprisingly, there was quite a bit of controversy surrounding it when it was introduced. However, it has since become quite popular with the hordes of tourists that visit the museum each day. If you stand on one of the concrete blocks near the roundabout it's easy to get of a photo of yourself touching the tip of the pyramid, similar to the one everyone takes when they go to the Taj Mahal.
Location:
Paris, France
Tuesday, 24 July 2012
Tour of Mont Blanc, Days 6 and 7
Day 6
After an outstanding breakfast at Relais Arpette, we headed for Fenetre Arpette (2665m). The track started off at a relatively gentle slope but soon started ascending sharply. Stepping carefully across snow traverses, skipping across boulder fields, and treading up the switchbacks of the track, I finally reached the top of the mountain pass. Exhausted and happy to be done with it, I stopped to have the takeaway sandwich purchased from the refuge, take some snaps with John, then proceeded down the steep path to the bottom of the valley. On this particular day, we passed or crossed paths with several large trekking groups. All of them were informed of the etiquette of letting faster walkers pass but unfortunately a few solo walkers we came across were not as well versed and pushed on without even looking up, in one case almost leading to a collision.
After a long and seemingly never-ending descent we reached the popular Chalet du Glacier Buvette. We stopped for another meal there before carrying on up to Refuge Les Grandes. The path from the valley floor to the refuge ascended 600m. The weather was sunny and warm so the way to the top was a very sweaty one. As usual, John beat me to the refuge, this time by 15 minutes. He's a machine! We refilled our water bottles, took a few snaps, then carried on to Col de Balme. According to some other trekkers we met, the refuge there is said to be haunted by a witch. I guess we'd find out soon enough...
The walk to de Balme was fairly short but consisted of an undulating path which included one tricky snow traverse. As we approached one guy was attempting to cross it and nearly made it but slipped and slid down the face of it (about 20 metres). He slid down slowly and came to a complete stop once he reached the gravelly bottom. John made it across slowly and with the help of his trekking pole. I misheard him when he yelled over from the other side "don't do it!" and made an attempt at the crossing. About 5 steps in I realized that it was far too dangerous and tried to step back but it was too late. I was on the especially steep part of the mountain face and slid down at very high speed. When I hit the bottom it wasn't a gentle stop; I tumbled over one or two times before landing on my bum. After catching my breath, a quick check revealed that I luckily hadn't broken any bones and merely had a few cuts and scrapes. I was very lucky.
After walking down a bit to retrieve my water bottles I walked back up onto the main path to rejoin John and we reached Col de Balme. Strangely enough, there wasn't a single trekker at the refuge. It was a bit dark and unwelcoming but after what just happened I just wanted to stop for the day. But for some strange reason they didn't allow camping so we carried on to Le Tour. The explanation was that since we were still in Switzerland it wasn't allowed.
It was a quick 45 minute descent to Le Tour and we settled into the CAF refuge there. It was clean, well-run, and full of trekkers and climbers. Would highly recommend it. Dinner, breakfast and camping cost about EUR 22. Demi-pensione in the dortoir cost about EUR 39. All in all, it was a good deal. We had a great dinner, some wine, and good company.
Day 7
After a hearty breakfast, we set off for Lac Blanc. After about a 30 minute descent we reached Tre-le-Champ and from here it was all uphill to Lac Blanc. We reached some very steep areas where we had to climb metal ladders or traverse narrow rock faces with the help of metal railings to hold on to. It wasn't exactly nerve-racking but I'm sure some people felt uneasy about it. After a couple of hours we reached our destination and stopped for a cup of tea. The view of Mont Blanc from here is truly amazing and was well worth the detour.
From Lac Blanc to Le Brevent we took a series of variantes that saved us from having to descent to the valley floor. Our first stop was at L'Index where we stopped to have lunch. There was a picnic table and bench that suited us perfectly and I thoroughly enjoyed my takeaway lunch from the refuge in Le Tour. The only downside to this spot, however, was that there was no toilet nor a place to get water.
After lunch we accidentally took a double variante and ended up on a narrow high path that involved some serious rock scrambling that honestly made me feel a bit uncomfortable mainly due to the sheer drop if I made a mistake. I took my sweet time and made it through that section and we linked back up to the main track. It wasn't anything ridiculously dangerous but since I didn't have any ropes or equipment just didn't feel at ease. Back on the main track we went up and down past a few cols before finally reached Le Brevent. Along the way we came across a baby and mother Ibex. That was pretty cool.
At Le Brevent, they were just closing up the restaurant and cable car. Unfortunately for us they didn't have any potable water so we had to pay EUR 3 for a 500ml bottle of water. We were running very low and still had about an hour to go so we had no choice but to cough up the money. We took a couple of pics at the top to commemorate John's completion of the TMB and then descended down to Refuge Bellachat. I was 100% ready to settle in after a long day but unfortunately the refuge was full!! They had no space for me at all so I had to carry on to Les Houches, another 2.5 hours down. On the bright side, there was a toilet at the refuge (I really had to go) but much to my chagrin it was a squat toilet. Using a squat toilet to poop after 8 hours of hiking was probably the hardest part of the TMB.
I was told I had to hurry down cause the manager of Gite Michel Fagot in Les Houches was waiting for me to arrive before he left for the day. I dashed out of Bellachat without looking at the signs and about 45 min later I realized I had gone the wrong way. The path I took was leading me straight down towards Chamonix but I didn't have the time nor energy to go back up and get on the right path. I tried to go west as much as I could and ended up in Les Bossons and conveniently found an easy path along the river Arve to Les Houches. After an extremely long day, I finally reached Les Houches around 21:00, checked in, showered, inhaled a pizza, and passed out. TMB fini!
| Glacier du Trient |
After a long and seemingly never-ending descent we reached the popular Chalet du Glacier Buvette. We stopped for another meal there before carrying on up to Refuge Les Grandes. The path from the valley floor to the refuge ascended 600m. The weather was sunny and warm so the way to the top was a very sweaty one. As usual, John beat me to the refuge, this time by 15 minutes. He's a machine! We refilled our water bottles, took a few snaps, then carried on to Col de Balme. According to some other trekkers we met, the refuge there is said to be haunted by a witch. I guess we'd find out soon enough...
| Shouldn't have tried to cross this one... |
After walking down a bit to retrieve my water bottles I walked back up onto the main path to rejoin John and we reached Col de Balme. Strangely enough, there wasn't a single trekker at the refuge. It was a bit dark and unwelcoming but after what just happened I just wanted to stop for the day. But for some strange reason they didn't allow camping so we carried on to Le Tour. The explanation was that since we were still in Switzerland it wasn't allowed.
It was a quick 45 minute descent to Le Tour and we settled into the CAF refuge there. It was clean, well-run, and full of trekkers and climbers. Would highly recommend it. Dinner, breakfast and camping cost about EUR 22. Demi-pensione in the dortoir cost about EUR 39. All in all, it was a good deal. We had a great dinner, some wine, and good company.
Day 7
| Lac Blanc |
From Lac Blanc to Le Brevent we took a series of variantes that saved us from having to descent to the valley floor. Our first stop was at L'Index where we stopped to have lunch. There was a picnic table and bench that suited us perfectly and I thoroughly enjoyed my takeaway lunch from the refuge in Le Tour. The only downside to this spot, however, was that there was no toilet nor a place to get water.
After lunch we accidentally took a double variante and ended up on a narrow high path that involved some serious rock scrambling that honestly made me feel a bit uncomfortable mainly due to the sheer drop if I made a mistake. I took my sweet time and made it through that section and we linked back up to the main track. It wasn't anything ridiculously dangerous but since I didn't have any ropes or equipment just didn't feel at ease. Back on the main track we went up and down past a few cols before finally reached Le Brevent. Along the way we came across a baby and mother Ibex. That was pretty cool.
| View of Mont Blanc from Le Brevent |
I was told I had to hurry down cause the manager of Gite Michel Fagot in Les Houches was waiting for me to arrive before he left for the day. I dashed out of Bellachat without looking at the signs and about 45 min later I realized I had gone the wrong way. The path I took was leading me straight down towards Chamonix but I didn't have the time nor energy to go back up and get on the right path. I tried to go west as much as I could and ended up in Les Bossons and conveniently found an easy path along the river Arve to Les Houches. After an extremely long day, I finally reached Les Houches around 21:00, checked in, showered, inhaled a pizza, and passed out. TMB fini!
Labels:
Europe,
France,
Mont Blanc,
Switzerland,
Trekking
Location:
Utrecht, The Netherlands
Monday, 23 July 2012
Tour of Mont Blanc, Days 3 - 5
Day 3
It rained heavily overnight and this morning there was still a steady downfall. From des Mottets, it was all uphill to Col de la Seigne (2516m). Even with a pair of Compeeds protecting my 2 huge heel blisters, I took it slow all morning. To be fair, I was moving a LOT faster than yesterday but every now and then I would step on a loose rock and that would trigger a sharp pain in my heel. The forecast was quite accurate and the sky cleared just before midday. The walk down to Rifugio Elisabetta was absolutely beautiful. The valley and the glaciers where truly breathtaking. The refuge itself was perched on a hill right under a glacier and boasted some spectacular views.
I carried on past the refuge and since the weather was clear, took the high elevation route to Courmayeur. This track took me high above the valley and afforded me bountiful views of the valley and the glaciers on the other side of the Val Veni. The walk took longer than expected because I couldn't help but stop and admire my surroundings. Oh, and take some pictures too. You don't get scenery like this in New York City or Sydney. I didn't get a takeaway lunch from des Mottets so I ended up having a late lunch of beef stew (EUR 12) at Col Checrouit. I saved my half eaten sandwich from yesterday but it had gone off overnight :(
From Col Checrouit, it was a long and boring descent on an unpaved road down to Dolonne and Courmayeur. Thankfully Courmayeur is a beautiful town with views of the Alps on nearly every street. The high street embodies that of a sophisticated Italian getaway. Tanned skin, fashionable clothes, and shops to suit every taste. I stocked up on Compeeds at the local pharmacy for my assortment of blisters and took dinner at what I later found out was the best pizza place in town: Du Tunnel. The pizza was large and delicious but the Italian custom of EUR 1.5 service charge wasn't so nice.
Day 4
Before leaving Courmayeur I picked up a few snacks at the Carrefour then started the ascent up to Rifuge Bertone. It took nearly 2 sweaty hours to reach the refuge, which is 700m above town. From here, it was a lovely and relatively flat walk to the Rifuge Bonatti. There were lots of day walkers and people training for the TMB Ultra Marathon (UTMB) on this stretch. The Val Ferret valley also provided awesome views. After a steep and sweaty final ascent to Bonatti, I took a break and had my lunch there. The refuge has a large outdoor seating area which is great for getting some sun and for looking at the mountains and glaciers on the other side of the narrow valley.
From Bonatti to Rifugio Elena, there's a short climb followed by a long flat. And then, much to my chagrin, a drop to the valley floor followed by a very steep climb up to Elena. There was one especially dodgy snow traverse which I probably should've detoured around but took head on and safely made it across. The ascent seemed never-ending but upon reaching Elena I was rewarded with a lovely full-on view of the Glacier de Pre de Bar. Since the refuge is accessible by road there were lots of day trippers here. I stopped to have a snack and refill my water bottles before tackling the Grand Col Ferret. It was already mid afternoon by this point the thought of doing another mountain pass nearly took the wind out of me. The path was not as steep as the earlier ones today but still took some time. It quickly started to get very cold and small hail started coming down but that wasn't going to stop me from getting up and over the pass. At the top, the view looking back on the Val Ferret valley was incredible. But it was freezing cold so I didn't spend much time up there and quickly started heading down into Switzerland. The fatigue was taking hold so I called it a day once I reached La Peule, a converted dairy farm with a surprisingly very high level of accommodation. There were also some Mongolian style yurts that you can stay in, which I found out later were cheaper than the dorms. Demi-pensione (bed, dinner, breakfast) in the dorm came out to CHF 58, which is over 25% more than in France!
Day 5
After breakfast I accidentally took the low altitude route to get to La Fouly. The weather was great but there were clouds hanging over the mountains so there wasn't much to see anyhow. La Fouly is a nice little town but Praz-de-Fort is a gorgeous little town. Some of the timber chalets look over 100 years old! There weren't many mountains views today but plenty of forest and river views. I was planning on taking lunch in Issert but the prices were really high and there weren't many dining options available. Switzerland is a seriously expensive country! On the way up to Champex I ran into John at a small picnic area. We stopped and had a chat and he told me about another variante which I hadn't considered and he highly recommended. A blister had slowed him down and today was his easy day. At the pace he normally moves I didn't think I'd see him again after day 2.
The upwards path to Champex had random wood statues in honor of the champignon mushrooms which grow in the area. After a relatively easy ascent (compared with previous days) I reached Champex and had a late lunch. CHF 20 for a salad and plate of spagbol at a local restaurant. The supermarket didn't open till 15:00 so I had no self-catering choice anyway. John caught up with me in Champex and I decided to join him on the variante to Fenetre d'Arpette (2665m). He camped and I stayed in the dortoir at Relais Arpette, a large and very well run refuge. When I got my bill that evening of CHF 80 I found out that it's also an expensive refuge. Everything at the refuge, including the views, were excellent so it was well worth it.
My blisters are no longer bothering me thanks to the Compeeds but I wish I had bought extra wide medical tape to put over the Compeeds. After a few days they wear down and start to get stuck to my socks...
| Rifugio Elisabetta |
I carried on past the refuge and since the weather was clear, took the high elevation route to Courmayeur. This track took me high above the valley and afforded me bountiful views of the valley and the glaciers on the other side of the Val Veni. The walk took longer than expected because I couldn't help but stop and admire my surroundings. Oh, and take some pictures too. You don't get scenery like this in New York City or Sydney. I didn't get a takeaway lunch from des Mottets so I ended up having a late lunch of beef stew (EUR 12) at Col Checrouit. I saved my half eaten sandwich from yesterday but it had gone off overnight :(
| Courmayeur |
Day 4
| View of Mont Blanc from just above Rifugio Bertone |
| Yurts at La Peule |
Day 5
After breakfast I accidentally took the low altitude route to get to La Fouly. The weather was great but there were clouds hanging over the mountains so there wasn't much to see anyhow. La Fouly is a nice little town but Praz-de-Fort is a gorgeous little town. Some of the timber chalets look over 100 years old! There weren't many mountains views today but plenty of forest and river views. I was planning on taking lunch in Issert but the prices were really high and there weren't many dining options available. Switzerland is a seriously expensive country! On the way up to Champex I ran into John at a small picnic area. We stopped and had a chat and he told me about another variante which I hadn't considered and he highly recommended. A blister had slowed him down and today was his easy day. At the pace he normally moves I didn't think I'd see him again after day 2.
| Relais Arpette |
My blisters are no longer bothering me thanks to the Compeeds but I wish I had bought extra wide medical tape to put over the Compeeds. After a few days they wear down and start to get stuck to my socks...
Labels:
Europe,
France,
Italy,
Mont Blanc,
Switzerland,
Trekking
Location:
Les Houches, France
Saturday, 21 July 2012
Tour of Mont Blanc, Days 1 and 2
The Mont Blanc Massif is the tallest mountain range in western Europe. Mont Blanc itself towers over Europe at 4808m. The Tour of Mont Blanc (TMB) is traditionally done as an anti-clockwise circuit starting in Les Houches in the French Alps. The classic guide to the walk published by Cicerone breaks the walk up into 11 stages, but since of the stages are short I made a plan to do the walk in 9 stages. I ended up doing it in 7.
Day 1
My TMB started with an overnight train from Paris (Austerlitz) to St Germain Les Bains and then a local train to Les Houches, which is a tiny town when compared to Chamonix. After getting some food and trail snacks at the local Carrefour I made a reservation at Gite Michel Fagot for my return 9 days from now and stored my bag there. At the tourist office I made a reservation for tonight at Camping Pontet, which is about a 40 min walk past Les Contamines. So far so good...until I got to where the signpost opposite the Hotel Slalom was. The sign was pointing down towards the river instead of up into the mountains. This totally confused me and it wasn't until a lovely elderly woman helped me out that I found my way. From here the path ambled upwards, providing a fine view of the town and valley below.
The highlight of the day was coming across two young businessmen running a snack bar from their front yard. They got really excited and rang a bell each time someone walked by. After stopping for an expensive coffee next to the rack rail station I carried on to the Hotel Bellevue to admire the views. It was at this point that I made the decision to take the variante via Refuge Miages. In hindsight, this was not a good idea. While the views were great, the extra 2-3 hours of walking on my first day took a toll on my body, particularly my feet. A nasty blister formed on the back of my left heel and one was starting to form on the back of my right heel. Refuge Miages would have been a great place to spend the night but I made do with having a simple but very tasty slice of blueberry pie before carrying on to Les Contamines, where I picked up some groceries, and onward to Camping Pontet. If I had known that the campsite had dinner for sale I wouldn't have bothered to cook my own since there was a EUR 2 fee for using the kitchen. Although I found a EUR 10 note on the road near the campsite :) The foam beds in the dortoir were for some reason too short for the bedframe but my body was so racked it didn't matter.
Day 2
Breakfast was available for EUR 6 but I had food already so I just got a coffee for EUR 1.4. At around 08:10 I started walking, but this time with a simple bandage on the left heel blister. The track started out fairly flat then started getting steep before opening up onto a small plateau of farmland. Before reaching the farmland the pain from the blister was becoming unbearable so I stopped to have a look. Blood had soaked through the bandage. This time I applied a gauze pad and medical tape to hold it in place but less than an hour later the pain was still present if not worse. Before starting the ascent to Col du Bonhomme I tried wearing 2 pairs of socks on each foot. The first few steps were actually more painful than before but the extra cushioning took hold and made each step slightly less painful. For the rest of the day I was moving about as fast as a senior citizen with bad knee, an oxygen tank, and a cane. I'm pretty sure it looked like I was limping. There was a small shelter atop the Col where I tried to have lunch but it was so cold up there I only had half my sandwich and sprinted out. I also tried drinking a bit of wine up there but that didn't warm me up either. On the bright side, it was so cold that I couldn't feel the pain from the blisters anymore. It got even colder and ominous as I made my way to Col des Fours (2665m). The path wasn't that steep but it felt longer than it really was because of the blisters. On the other side of the col the sun was out and shining and the path winded its way down through alpine country, abandoned farms, and finally down a 4x4 road to the Les Ville des Glaciers and then a gentle ascent to Refuge des Mottets. It was here that I found out about some special blister prevention stuff called Compeed and where I met John who was nice enough to give me 2 pieces of it. It's like a second skin which goes over areas where blisters would form. des Mottets provided a beautiful and atmospheric view over the valley and was a great place to stay the night.
Day 1
The highlight of the day was coming across two young businessmen running a snack bar from their front yard. They got really excited and rang a bell each time someone walked by. After stopping for an expensive coffee next to the rack rail station I carried on to the Hotel Bellevue to admire the views. It was at this point that I made the decision to take the variante via Refuge Miages. In hindsight, this was not a good idea. While the views were great, the extra 2-3 hours of walking on my first day took a toll on my body, particularly my feet. A nasty blister formed on the back of my left heel and one was starting to form on the back of my right heel. Refuge Miages would have been a great place to spend the night but I made do with having a simple but very tasty slice of blueberry pie before carrying on to Les Contamines, where I picked up some groceries, and onward to Camping Pontet. If I had known that the campsite had dinner for sale I wouldn't have bothered to cook my own since there was a EUR 2 fee for using the kitchen. Although I found a EUR 10 note on the road near the campsite :) The foam beds in the dortoir were for some reason too short for the bedframe but my body was so racked it didn't matter.
Day 2
Breakfast was available for EUR 6 but I had food already so I just got a coffee for EUR 1.4. At around 08:10 I started walking, but this time with a simple bandage on the left heel blister. The track started out fairly flat then started getting steep before opening up onto a small plateau of farmland. Before reaching the farmland the pain from the blister was becoming unbearable so I stopped to have a look. Blood had soaked through the bandage. This time I applied a gauze pad and medical tape to hold it in place but less than an hour later the pain was still present if not worse. Before starting the ascent to Col du Bonhomme I tried wearing 2 pairs of socks on each foot. The first few steps were actually more painful than before but the extra cushioning took hold and made each step slightly less painful. For the rest of the day I was moving about as fast as a senior citizen with bad knee, an oxygen tank, and a cane. I'm pretty sure it looked like I was limping. There was a small shelter atop the Col where I tried to have lunch but it was so cold up there I only had half my sandwich and sprinted out. I also tried drinking a bit of wine up there but that didn't warm me up either. On the bright side, it was so cold that I couldn't feel the pain from the blisters anymore. It got even colder and ominous as I made my way to Col des Fours (2665m). The path wasn't that steep but it felt longer than it really was because of the blisters. On the other side of the col the sun was out and shining and the path winded its way down through alpine country, abandoned farms, and finally down a 4x4 road to the Les Ville des Glaciers and then a gentle ascent to Refuge des Mottets. It was here that I found out about some special blister prevention stuff called Compeed and where I met John who was nice enough to give me 2 pieces of it. It's like a second skin which goes over areas where blisters would form. des Mottets provided a beautiful and atmospheric view over the valley and was a great place to stay the night.
Labels:
Europe,
France,
Mont Blanc,
Trekking
Location:
Les Houches, France
Europe By Rail
| Paris |
Location:
Les Houches, France
Thursday, 5 May 2011
Iceland in 4 Days - Nov 2009
Volcanoes? Check. Glaciers? Check. Lava fields? Check. Iceland is easily one of the most beautiful and dramatic countries I've ever been to. The island sits atop the Mid Atlantic ridge, the undersea volcano range which runs north-south from pole to pole. The geothermal activity has carved the landscape into what it is today. The road from the airport to the capital Reykjavik is built atop a massive lava field and is the backdrop for a nice welcome to the country. Reykjavik is a beautiful city in the southwest of the island overlooking a harbour and backed by mountains in the distance. The city itself is small, charming, and very walkable. It's easy to walk the main bits of the city in one day since it's so small. It's totally worth it to go to the top of the Hallgrimskirkja cathedral where you can get 360 degree views of the city.
There are loads of adventure activities to choose from a several different operators. I chose to do a glacier hike and some iceclimbing. I was picked up from my hostel early in the morning and driven out to the glacier. The weather was pretty bad but thankfully I came prepared with thermals and waterproofs so I was pretty much unaffected. Despite the pounding rain and wind we suited up, strapped in our crampons and set our feet onto the glacier. Our guide started by showing us how to walk properly with the crampons and ice axe. After this brief lesson we hiked up the glacier, crossing crevasses, and stopping to take a sip of water from a small moulin. It was the best water I've ever had! We eventually reached a wall of ice on the glacier that was suitable for climbing. Our guide set up the climbing ropes and we took turn scaling the wall. Ice climbing is not easy at all. You need quite a bit a upper body strength in addition to technical skill with the axes and crampons. I made it to the top (really happy that I didn't spike myself with the axes or crampons!) then abseiled down. After the climbing we cautiously made our way back down the glacier and to the car park. There were delicious sandwiches awaiting us in the van which we all wolfed down on the way back to Reykjavik.The other activity which is highly recommended is the Golden Circle tour. It's a day-long tour which takes you to some of the best sites around Reykjavik, including a visit to a geothermal power plant, the Þingvellir national park which is situated on the continental divide between the North American and European tectonic plates, and the famous geysers which erupt pretty regularly. I had a really cool guide who had the best accent and pronounced gigantic like "guy-gantic".
Friday and Saturday nights out in Reykjavik are awesome! There are bars and clubs everywhere and everyone is out partying and having a good time, or in other words taking part in the runtur. The runtur is not an official event, it's the weekend pub crawl that the locals do. Drinking on the street is legal and you can order beer to go from the bars. In fact, it's quite common to just walk out with your pint glass and then smash it on the street when you're done with it. There's a massive cleanup every morning to sweep away all the broken glass from the previous night. I'm guessing they have a good glass recycling facility somewhere in town.
I wish I could've stayed in Iceland longer and driven around the entire island. Iceland is a very expensive place to visit despite their currency collapsing during the recent financial crisis. A pint of week cost about US$8 at the time. Before the crisis, it was double that. Food prices are comparable with those in New York but everything else is considerably more expensive. That being said, Iceland is an amazing place and totally worth every krona.
Location:
Reykjavik, Iceland
Monday, 18 January 2010
Barcelona, Spain - Jan 2005
This was my first ever trip outside of North America. At this point in life, I'd only been to various places in the Northeast and once to Montreal, Canada so this was a big deal for me. First thing I had to do was get a passport! Typical American, 21yrs old and never had a passport in my life. The idea to do this trip was entirely my sisters' and I was hesitant at first, but decided to go anyway. Was living in Boston at the time, so I made the drive down to NYC to fly out together with my sisters from JFK.
We stayed at the Barcelo Sants Hotel, which had a convenient direct rail link to the airport and to the city center via the metro. That first day, we took the metro into the city center and walked all over the city. For hours, literally. I didn't have the most comfortable sneakers on, so eventually my feet started to hurt and after another day of walking I had cankles like a pregnant woman. If you ever go to Barcelona, don't forget your walking shoes!
The city itself is really beautiful and has lots to do. We went on our own Gaudi tour throughout the city. Gaudi is the reason why we have the word "gaudy" in English today ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antoni_Gaudí ). He was born in Catalonia and did most of his major works in Barcelona, including the absolutely spectacular Sagrada Família. Over the course of several days, we visited all his major works; they each have an artistic style that is uniquely and unmistakably Gaudi. My personal favorites are the Sagrada Família and the Park Güell. They're both this biggest projects and are perfect examples of his artistic style. There are also lots of museums in the city. We went to the Gaudi, Joan Miro, and Picasso museums. At the Gaudi museum, there was this one window that had a great view, but it was pretty high off the ground and Laurie couldn't see. So I gave her a boost haha.
The other big thing we did in Barcelona was eating ! Tapas, wine, and sangria galore! One thing that we tried but surprisingly didn't like was paella. It had a really strong fish odor which just overwhelmed all the other flavors. I suppose if we held our noses it would've tasted better? Oh and Spanish wine glasses are great :) They're like small cups, but they're far more practical than traditional wine glasses. Kim and I picked up a pack of them at the department store.
The other thing I tried to bring back was't an object, but rather an idea. Unfortunately I don't think it'll ever really catch on in the US... Everywhere I looked, people actually took nice long lunch breaks and even came across people sleeping in parks. Siesta! What an amazing idea! I pitched it to my superiors back at work when I got back, but I wasn't surprised when I didn't win them over. One day siesta will prevail in the US!!
Our last night in the city I managed to break away from my sisters and partied all night with some American students I met. We went to a salsa club, then a "regular" club, then the after hours club. The nightlife scene in Barcelona is amazing! We partied till the metro opened up again at 5am. That led to maybe the funniest thing I've ever seen. I walk into the hotel room, the shades are pulled slightly so that there's some light from the street filtering in. I see a dark figure standing in front of the window, hands on hips. It's my sister, she's 5'2". And she looks tiny with the light coming behind her. Hilarious!
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