Old Town Square, Prague

It may be rammed with tourists (although not as many as Paris) but Prague is still definitely worth visiting. This image was captured inbetween massive tour groups walking past. The city was largely spared from bombing during WWII, making one of the best preserved medieval city centres in all of Europe. It's easy to wander around on your own but to get a good sense of history there are a couple of free walking tours available which meet by the astronomical clock. I went with the "yellow shirt" one and our guide was knowledgable, funny, and keen to show us the highlights of Prague. The tour lasts about 2.5 hours and the guides work entirely on tips.

The astronomical clock (the tower on the left) does a little show every hour on the hour and lasts about 1.5 minutes. Personally, I thought it was a bit disappointing and not worth waiting for. Some figurines out of doors in the clock and someone plays a trumpet from the top of the tower. But if you happen to be near the clock on the hour then it's worth having a look.

Krakow's Market Square

Krakow's Market Square is the heart of the old city. Thankfully it wasn't destroyed by the Nazis during the war and today it's buzzing with tourists snapping photos and sipping coffee at the many outdoor cafes. Due to its tourist allure, you won't see many locals hanging out around here...

Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

For such a small island, Koh Phi Phi offers quite a bit. For starters, it's easily one of the most beautiful places on Earth. It's one of three places on the planet that have amazing rock formations that rise up out of the water as if they were fingers. The accommodation options on the island range from basic guesthouses that run for about US$20 per night to luxury resorts which can cost in the hundreds. There are no publicly available motorized vehicles on the island, the only ones I saw belong to the guys who haul out the rubbish each evening. 

You can snorkel, dive, wakeboard, banana boat, hike, or just laze on the beach. Oh and you can party like a rockstar every night. There are nightly fireshows on the beach and as the fireshows come to a close the party gets started with free buckets and hordes of bucket-loving party goers. Being able to party on the beach nightly is awesome! There are loads of tattoo parlors where you can get traditional bamboo needle tattoos lining the road to the beach so it's very easy to wake up with a tattoo in the morning. 

We were lucky enough to have enough people to hire our own boat for a tour of the Phi Phi Islands at a cost of about US$20 per person and there were about 15 of us. We went to all the usual stops like Mosquito Island but on our own schedule which was really nice. Although we did have some mechanical issues at one point which led to the boat almost drifting into a limestone karst and me almost drowning cause the boat kept slowing drifting away from me but thankfully my mates helped me get back onto the boat. All in all, it was an amazing day capped off with a spectacular sunset; easily one of the most memorable days I've had while traveling. 

To get to Koh Phi Phi, you can take a ferry from Phuket, Krabi, or Koh Lanta. The ferry is about 1 to 1.5 hours from any of those places. There's an airport in Phuket and in Krabi; in both cases the ferry terminal is not too far away. Oh, and if you've ever seen the movie "The Beach", this is where it was shot.

Terracotta Warriors, Xi'an, China - June 2010

The Terracotta Warriors in Xi'an are truly an amazing thing to witness. The first emperor of China had them built to protect his mausoleum in the afterlife. Ironically, at that time the nobility in China thought that mercury would give them immortality however it was the consumption of mercury that eventually killed the emperor. The most amazing thing about the statues are the details. Every single soldier is different. The face, the height, the armor...all different. It turns out that of all the statues at the site, only one of them was fully intact. The rest were painstakingly rebuilt from shards. The kneeling archer was saved because all of the standing statues around him collapsed and created a roof around him.

To get to the Terracotta Warriors by public transport you have to first get to the rail station. There are loads of buses in the old city that go straight there. From the rail station you can catch a public bus straight to the site. Once here it's worthwhile to hire a tour guide. The official rate is 100 CNY through the office however you can barter and get one for less. I got my own personal one for 60CNY for about 2 hours. Alternatively you can pay over 100USD for a fully guided tour including transport from Xi'an, which equates to over 600CNY. But seriously, why would you pay over eight times more for the same product?

Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is easily one of the best day walks in the world. You've probably seen its best known highlight Mount Ngauruhoe starring in the Lord of the Rings Trilogy as Mount Doom. But there's more to this walk than tracing Frodo's steps. Starting just above 1000m you're already in an alpine climate zone devoid of any large plants. As you steadily hike up even higher vegetation all but completely disappears and all you see is a beautiful alpine landscape. Looming in the distance is Mount Doom and Mount Tongariro.

About 1.5 hours into the walk the turnoff for the Mount Doom summit track starts. The hike up to the summit takes about 2 hours and there is no well formed track. You can follow in other's footsteps or do your own route finding. I found out later that it's best to stay to your left going up and coming down. At the summit you're treated to a large volcanic crater and stunning views if the sky is clear. The clouds flew through the valley really quickly so it's worth spending some time at the summit if have it. It's also worth it to walk around the summit at least halfway so that you can get a nice view of the Emerald Lakes. The path down requires you to almost slide down a steep side of the volcano. It's much easier than it looks so long as you let the loose volcanic ash take you down.

The next bit of the track is flat then starts going uphill to the Red Crater. From near here you can either summit Mount Tongariro or carry on to the Emerald Lakes. I didn't have enough time to do the Mount Tongariro sidetrip so I carried onto the lakes. The view from above the lakes is really stunning and the path down is really steep. It's another slide down loose volcanic ash which I was used to by now.

After the lakes you come across the Mount Ruapehu Crater Lake. It's worth it to stop here for a look back at the Red Crater and Mount Doom. If the sky is clear you can get an incredible view of them lined up. It's truly breathtaking. From here the track climbs a bit up to a rest hut then steadily decends down below the tree line to the end point. This bit accounts for nearly half the track and I didn't find it nearly as interesting as the first half so I practically ran through it. The buses generally give you 8 hours to do the walk, which, if you walk quickly, is just enough time to summit Mount Doom and finish the track in time for your pickup.

Milford Sound, Fiordland, New Zealand

Sunset over the Phi Phi Islands, Thailand

The Temples of Angkor - Days 2 and 3

Based on my good friend Gary's recommendation , on the second day we decided to do sunrise at Angkor Wat then go to Banteay Srei and Banteay Samre via tuk tuk. We arranged the tuk tuk through our guesthouse (Millennium Guesthouse, a chill family run place that has double rooms for 6USD/night) for 20USD for 4 people. The driver was ready before we were; when we came outside at 04:50 he was already ready to go. We picked up our friends at their guesthouse and then off we went to Angkor Wat. We arrived before sunrise and there was already a crowd of people at the sunrise point. We staked out a good spot where we could see the five towers of the temple reflecting off the water and waited for the sun to ascend over the temple. It wasn't the most spectacular sunrise I've ever seen from an aesthetic point of view but the temples made it special nonetheless.

Banteay Srei

After the sun had fully risen we had breakfast at the stalls nearby who more than prepared to discount their inflated prices when I looked at the menu then said "too expensive". They gave us a 25% discount on everything on the menu which was quite nice. The drive out to Banteay Srei took about one hour but it was totally worth it. The temple is located about 37km from Angkor Wat and has been lovingly restored. While not spectacular in size, the things that set it apart are the type of stone used (sandstone) to build it and the intricate carvings and statues found throughout the temple. The carvings are exquisite. Next up was Banteay Samre. It's made out of the same sandstone as Banteay Samre and follows typical Khmer temple architectural style.

Elephant Terrace, Angkor Thom

On the last day of my 3 day pass I hired a mountain bike and cycled the entire grand tour, a return trip of approximately 38km from the Old Market in Siem Reap. Unfortunately for me it was REALLY hot and sunny that day so it was slow going once I got into the Angkor complex since there's not much shade to be had along the road. I stopped off at Angkor Thom's Elephant Terrace, Baphuon, Phimeanakas, and Terrace of the Leper King. Of all these the Elephant Terrace interested me the most. Judging from the name and the way it's structured it's safe to assume they used to mount and dismount elephants. The carvings along the walls of the terrace are really detailed, numerous, and absolutely stunning to behold.

East Gate, Preah Khan

Neak Pean

After cycling through the north gate of Angkor Thom, I wound my way around the northern part of the loop to Preah Khan. This temple is still in the process of being restored; there are piles of temple rubble everywhere which lends it an eerie ghostlike feeling as you walk through from west to east. At the eastern entrance there's a massive tree growing over and into the temple wall. Trees like this are a big part of why this particular temple is in ruin. Over the centuries nature flexed its muscle and reclaimed the land from man and as a result toppled much of the temple in the slow onslaught. I weaved my way around Chinese tourists and returned to the western gate to retrieve my bicycle and headed east to Neak  Pean and Ta Som. Neak Pean consists of five bathing pools with a stupa-like structure in the middle. Ta Som is another fine temple to visit but at this point I was templed-out so I took a quick poke around then headed back to town in the sweltering heat. The cold shower that awaited me at the guesthouse was a glad respite from the tropical weather outside.

The Temples of Angkor - Day 1

A Cambodian batmobile / tuktuk

The Temples of Angkor in Cambodia are SE Asia's largest temple complex and is the largest pre-industrial temple complex in the world. As a result, the airport in Siem Reap is busier than that of the capital, Phnom Penh, and receives about 2 million international visitors annually. Visits to Angkor can be arranged upon arrival in Siem Reap; there's no need to book ahead. The main temples, Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom are about 6km from the center of Siem Reap so walking is not really an option. Options for going to Angkor range from bicycles to helicopters and just about everything in between. Unfortunately, motorbike hire is not available in Siem Reap, probably to keep the tuk tuk drivers in business since there is an overabundance of them.

Given the sheer size and distance of the entire complex I bought a 3 day admission ticket for 40 USD (1 day tickets are 20, 7 days are 60) which allows me to go on 3 separate days within a 7 day span. Dasha and I hired bicycles on the day I arrived for 1.5 USD each (which in hindsight was a ripoff, we could have gotten a bike for 1 USD elsewhere) and cycled ourselves to Angkor Wat, Bayon in Angkor Thom, Ta Keo, Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei and Pre Rup all in one very long day. Angkor Wat is the centerpiece of the complex and while there was some scaffolding up due to renovation, the temple was no less impressive to behold. The intricacy and volume of the carvings on the outer walls of the temple are astounding.

Bayon, Angkor Thom

The Bayon is the centrepiece of Angkor Thom. It features several spires on the main temple platform each with stone faces carved into them. The faces are near identical and if you're standing on the main platform they are everywhere you look. We weaved our way around the crowds of Chinese and Korean package tourists and managed to get some good photos with no people in them. Trust me, it can be a challenge to find a spot in the Bayon and in Angkor Wat with no people around.

The other temples we visited on Day 1 were not as large but were impressive in their own way. Ta Keo, Banteay Kdei, and Pre Rup offered up some find examples of Khmer architecture and nice views of the jungle from the top. I'm not sure if the ancient Khmers had tiny feet and long legs but given the way the steps are constructed I think the people were shaped that way. Some scenes from Tomb Raider were shot at Ta Prohm, which is overgrown with massive trees that literally have crushed or grown into the temple walls. The trees are as tall as buildings so it's no wonder that they'd be able to knock out or at least weaken the structural integrity of the walls. We tried to watch the sunset from the top of Pre Rup but it was too cloudy and we also realized that it would merely be a sunset over the jungle (no other temples were in sight) so we started cycling back before it became really dark.

Sunrise Over Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Hoi An, Vietnam - Beaches, Tailors, and a UNESCO World Heritage site too

Hoi An is located along the central coast of Vietnam. It boasts 2 beaches, the "local" beach and the "tourist" beach. Despite the poor weather we hired bicycles and went to the local beach which is located about 3km from the center of town. The local beach is the more beautiful one and it lived up to the hype despite the overcast sky and rough sea. Since it had been raining everyday none of us brought our cameras in case of a downpour. The beach is lined with restaurants and small thatch roof huts for chilling out when the sun is out and the water is calm.

My custom tailored suit. Haven't worn
one for over 4 months, feels nice!

Hoi An is probably best known for its high quality tailors who can make just about any piece of clothing you desire at a very reasonable price. I couldn't resist and got myself a custom tailored suit for a 120USD. I put in the order in the late afternoon and my first fitting was the following morning. I've never worn any custom clothing before so it took a bit getting used to but I have to admit, it feels real nice! I ordered my suit and an accompanying dress shirt (20USD) from Kimmy Custom Tailor. While some people had complaints about the staff being rude I didn't experience any rudeness from them. My only worry is that I put on a lot of weight and the clothes won't fit anymore. The shirt and jacket were tight around the back and I had to go through a couple of more fittings before it felt right.

Old Town, Hoi An

Japanese Covered Bridge, Hoi An

The old town of Hoi An is lovingly preserved thanks to strict laws and governance. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site about 10 years ago. Although at street level it's lined with tourist shops, if you take a look at the buildings you'll begin to appreciate where you are and why it's a special place.

Mỹ Sơn Ruins

Another UNESCO site are the Mỹ Sơn Ruins of the Cham dynasty, about 1 hour away from Hoi An by bus. We did a half day tour of the ruins (that's really all the time you need to explore them) right before we left. While not impressive compared to the likes of Angkor Wat, they're an important cultural site and were probably far more impressive before they were bombed out during the war. The Americans bombed the site because the Viet Cong were hiding out there; there's even a large bomb crater at the site. 

Mỹ Sơn Ruins

Halong Bay, Vietnam

Halong Bay is one of 3 places in the world where there are natural limestone formations that rise out of the water. The other 2 places are the Phi Phi islands in Thailand and Guilin, China. Halong Bay has the distinction of having the most rock formations, somewhere near 9000 such mountains. It's truly one of the most beautiful places on Earth and holds dozens (if not hundreds) of secluded beaches tucked away behind towering limestone outcrops.

I went on the tour with Hanoi Backpacker's Hostel to Halong Bay. The food was incredible, the people were great, and I mustered up the courage to do some things which I've never done before including jumping 10m off the top deck of a boat into the sea below and wake boarding. While it was more expensive than many tours offered by travel agencies, it offered up everything I expected and didn't skimp on anything. I could've done more activities but sleeping in a hammock on a private island after a long night of partying was just too inviting. 

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Morning Alms in Luang Prabang

Every morning at 6am in Luang Prabang the local monks walk the main street collecting alms from the locals. The alms usually come in the form of homemade sticky rice and other foods. It's a local custom that's been around for ages. Tourists are welcome to witness the alms procession however from what I've been told it's best to witness it from a distance. There are plenty of women trying to sell sticky rice to tourists but you shouldn't buy it because the food they're selling is of dubious quality and also because you didn't prepare the sticky rice yourself. The monks also know that the sticky rice that they receive from tourists is of questionable quality.  
When we walked up to the main street I was surprised to see about 100 people lined up with alms to give to the monks and loads of tourists ready with their cameras for the monks to arrive. As we walked around some more I realized that the long line of alms givers were not local Lao people; they were Chinese package tourists. There must've been about 300 of them in total who had just arrived the day before. And even worse, they all brought their cameras and were being obnoxious Chinese tourists. Some were literally putting their cameras right in monk's faces and obstructing the procession. And just when you thought it couldn't get worse another bus full of Chinese tourists arrived.  
I managed to get away from them and their incessant photo posing and took some shots from a distance using my 18-270mm lens. The alms procession is a really beautiful thing to witness and thankfully even the hoards of Chinese tourists couldn't ruin the experience. 

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Dear India

The Taj Majal, Agra

Dear India,

I’m writing this letter to let you know that you’re beautiful. And mesmerizing. And enchanting and inviting and exotic and the stuff of dreams. But at the same time you can also be dirty, rude, crass, and infuriating. I’ve only known you for 6 weeks but I think I might be in love. You’ve shown me so many beautiful things and teased me with so many more. There’s been more than a few times when I was on a bus or train and saw something absolutely incredible but was already on my way to see something else you had in store for me.  Regarding your transit system, it’s really well run and gets people to where they need to go. In particular the rail system is outstanding when compared to many countries. It is light years better than Amtrak; Nepal doesn’t even have a rail system as far as I know.

Main Ghat, Varanasi

You’ve shown me the ultimate monument to love, religious festivals like nowhere else in the world, colonial forts, kama sutra stone carvings, modern cities, ancient settlements, and chilled out beach towns. You’ve drenched me with monsoon rains and dried me with subtropical rays of light. You’ve blocked my path so many times with cows that they became a part of my life. And no matter how hard I tried to avoid it, stepping into massive piles of cow dung also became a part of everyday life. Now that I think back to our time together, I think you’ve changed me in some subtle ways which I haven’t yet realized yet. You’ve opened my eyes (figuratively, not literally; my eyes are still tiny) to different cultures, customs, and religions. You’ve introduced me to loads of awesome people. Oh, and you can cook like a goddess. Yes, I was sad to say goodbye to Nepal and my first impression of you wasn’t positive, but in the end you won me over.

Sunrise over the River Ganges

But I’m easy to please. And I was still absolutely infuriated with you at times. The overt poverty, the filth, the flies, and the malodorous fumes that are present in so many places. The aggressive beggars, rickshaw drivers, jewelry sellers. The scammers and touts. People who pretend to be my friend and then ask me for “help”. It’s annoying and infuriating. You’ve really got to do something about it. No means no. Why can’t you take “no” for an answer? If you approach me in English, then you should know what “no” means. I can only imagine how many women here get date raped because their pleas of “no” are ignored. Yes, I’m going to see you again, but I’ve heard about lots of people who are fed up with you and never want to see you again. What will you do?

Riding the Indian Rail System

India, I don’t know if you’ve seen Forrest Gump but you’re the Jenny to my Forrest. Or maybe the Peggy to my Al Bundy. Or maybe the Azamat to my Borat. Anyhow, we’ve gotten along so far and I hope we’ll see each other again.

Thank you for an incredible time.

Cheers,
Steve

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Khajuraho

Orccha

Teej Festival, Jaipur

Sunset over Udaipur

Thar Desert, Jaisalmer

Pushkar

Amazing fish tikka, Goa

Anjuna Beach, Goa

Partying in Goa

Hampi