Overland from Koh Tao to Phuket

The ferry portion of the journey went smoothly. We paid 820THB at Lotus Travel for the entire journey. Songserm was the ferry provider and the boat left pretty much on time for Koh Phangan. At Phangan we switched boats for one heading to Koh Samui and the Don Sak Ferry Terminal. At Don Sak, there were buses waiting to take us onward. All going smoothly so far...till we got to Surat Thani. We were taken to a transfer station outside of town with almost no stores or restaurants around and told we'd have to wait an hour there. The staff at this place was incredibly rude and unhelpful despite their fake nice demeanor. I asked a guy if I could see a map of Phuket which they had shown us earlier and he tried to ignore me even though I asked 4 times after which I just picked it up off the table that he was sitting at and he flipped out. Wanker! The one hour wait turned into a 1.5 hour wait and when I asked what the holdup was they produced some more bullshit about there not being a bus available yet and that we'd have to wait another hour. Others ended up paying an additional 300THB to hire a minibus to their destinations because they got tired of waiting. I reported this news back to everyone and sensing the mood changing the staff rounded us up into a songthaew and took us to a random petrol station where a government bus eventually showed up to refuel and we got on. While we were waiting for this bus they were "joking" that we'd have to spend the night in Surat Thani. Not funny. We finally reached Phuket Town at about 11pm and walked down to the main road to get a tuktuk since the ones at the bus park were trying to rip us off. 14 hours total travel time. Unpleasant.

Koh Phangan, Thailand

All I've been doing on Koh Phangan is partying, playing beach volleyball, jumping into the sea and seeing incredible sunsets. Tonight is the Full Moon Party, hopefully will be partying till the sun comes up!

Sunset on Leela Beach

The Temples of Angkor - Days 2 and 3

Based on my good friend Gary's recommendation , on the second day we decided to do sunrise at Angkor Wat then go to Banteay Srei and Banteay Samre via tuk tuk. We arranged the tuk tuk through our guesthouse (Millennium Guesthouse, a chill family run place that has double rooms for 6USD/night) for 20USD for 4 people. The driver was ready before we were; when we came outside at 04:50 he was already ready to go. We picked up our friends at their guesthouse and then off we went to Angkor Wat. We arrived before sunrise and there was already a crowd of people at the sunrise point. We staked out a good spot where we could see the five towers of the temple reflecting off the water and waited for the sun to ascend over the temple. It wasn't the most spectacular sunrise I've ever seen from an aesthetic point of view but the temples made it special nonetheless.

Banteay Srei

After the sun had fully risen we had breakfast at the stalls nearby who more than prepared to discount their inflated prices when I looked at the menu then said "too expensive". They gave us a 25% discount on everything on the menu which was quite nice. The drive out to Banteay Srei took about one hour but it was totally worth it. The temple is located about 37km from Angkor Wat and has been lovingly restored. While not spectacular in size, the things that set it apart are the type of stone used (sandstone) to build it and the intricate carvings and statues found throughout the temple. The carvings are exquisite. Next up was Banteay Samre. It's made out of the same sandstone as Banteay Samre and follows typical Khmer temple architectural style.

Elephant Terrace, Angkor Thom

On the last day of my 3 day pass I hired a mountain bike and cycled the entire grand tour, a return trip of approximately 38km from the Old Market in Siem Reap. Unfortunately for me it was REALLY hot and sunny that day so it was slow going once I got into the Angkor complex since there's not much shade to be had along the road. I stopped off at Angkor Thom's Elephant Terrace, Baphuon, Phimeanakas, and Terrace of the Leper King. Of all these the Elephant Terrace interested me the most. Judging from the name and the way it's structured it's safe to assume they used to mount and dismount elephants. The carvings along the walls of the terrace are really detailed, numerous, and absolutely stunning to behold.

East Gate, Preah Khan

Neak Pean

After cycling through the north gate of Angkor Thom, I wound my way around the northern part of the loop to Preah Khan. This temple is still in the process of being restored; there are piles of temple rubble everywhere which lends it an eerie ghostlike feeling as you walk through from west to east. At the eastern entrance there's a massive tree growing over and into the temple wall. Trees like this are a big part of why this particular temple is in ruin. Over the centuries nature flexed its muscle and reclaimed the land from man and as a result toppled much of the temple in the slow onslaught. I weaved my way around Chinese tourists and returned to the western gate to retrieve my bicycle and headed east to Neak  Pean and Ta Som. Neak Pean consists of five bathing pools with a stupa-like structure in the middle. Ta Som is another fine temple to visit but at this point I was templed-out so I took a quick poke around then headed back to town in the sweltering heat. The cold shower that awaited me at the guesthouse was a glad respite from the tropical weather outside.

Overland from Siem Reap, Cambodia to Bangkok, Thailand

This journey was much worse just 2 years ago when the road on the Cambodian side wasn't paved. Nowadays, there's a paved and sealed road on both sides of the border which allows for quick land transport to and from. Now here's the hitch: Thai buses aren't allowed in Cambodia and Cambodian buses aren't allowed in Thailand. Despite all the promises of there being a toilet, no people sitting in the aisle, etc etc there isn't going to be a toilet and there will be people sitting in plastic chairs in the aisle on the bus from Siem Reap to the border at Poipet.

Now back to the hitch...Since the Cambodian bus isn't allowed to cross into Thailand you would think it would be as simple as having a bus waiting to pick you up on the Thai side. But as with all things in this part of the world, it's not so simple. We stopped at the bus company's office about 2km from the border to exchange our tickets for red stickers. Every bus company has their own color to distinguish themselves. The fact that there's no overlap in color leads me to believe that they're all working together in some sort of price fixing scheme. Now back to the stickers...we were stopped at their office for nearly an hour waiting for the guy to come up with the stickers. A better way of doing this would have been to give out the stickers when we boarded the bus instead of wasting an hour handing out stickers. Idiots! 

Like all border towns, Poipet is really seedy and not a nice place to stay for longer than you have to. The only thing you can do here is gamble at one of the many casinos that have popped up in recent years. Crossing through Cambodian immigration took a while because they're not equipped to handle large amounts of people but immigration on the Thai side went very smoothly. After crossing over we then waited for over an hour while the idiot bus staff arranged minibuses to take us to either Bangkok or Koh Chang. Why it took so long to get people into minibuses is beyond me. It's not difficult to put 12-13 people and their luggage into a bus. It certainly doesn't require an hour to get it sorted. And in the end after all the fuss the bus company staff put us through to fill up the vehicle there was an empty seat on our minibus. It never ceases to surprise me how dumb people can be. Thankfully the rest of the ride went smoothly despite our driver thinking he was on a formula 1 racetrack.

For those of you planning on taking this trip, the current going rate is 8USD for the full ride from Siem Reap to Bangkok. There are 2 toilet breaks along the way but no food stops so be sure to bring food and water with you before departing Siem Reap. We stopped for petrol around 16:00 and luckily there was a noodle stand there but before this point the only thing available was a semi-ripe mango for 20THB at the Thai border. Departure time is around 08:00 and arrival time is around 18:00 near Khao San Road.

The Temples of Angkor - Day 1

A Cambodian batmobile / tuktuk

The Temples of Angkor in Cambodia are SE Asia's largest temple complex and is the largest pre-industrial temple complex in the world. As a result, the airport in Siem Reap is busier than that of the capital, Phnom Penh, and receives about 2 million international visitors annually. Visits to Angkor can be arranged upon arrival in Siem Reap; there's no need to book ahead. The main temples, Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom are about 6km from the center of Siem Reap so walking is not really an option. Options for going to Angkor range from bicycles to helicopters and just about everything in between. Unfortunately, motorbike hire is not available in Siem Reap, probably to keep the tuk tuk drivers in business since there is an overabundance of them.

Given the sheer size and distance of the entire complex I bought a 3 day admission ticket for 40 USD (1 day tickets are 20, 7 days are 60) which allows me to go on 3 separate days within a 7 day span. Dasha and I hired bicycles on the day I arrived for 1.5 USD each (which in hindsight was a ripoff, we could have gotten a bike for 1 USD elsewhere) and cycled ourselves to Angkor Wat, Bayon in Angkor Thom, Ta Keo, Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei and Pre Rup all in one very long day. Angkor Wat is the centerpiece of the complex and while there was some scaffolding up due to renovation, the temple was no less impressive to behold. The intricacy and volume of the carvings on the outer walls of the temple are astounding.

Bayon, Angkor Thom

The Bayon is the centrepiece of Angkor Thom. It features several spires on the main temple platform each with stone faces carved into them. The faces are near identical and if you're standing on the main platform they are everywhere you look. We weaved our way around the crowds of Chinese and Korean package tourists and managed to get some good photos with no people in them. Trust me, it can be a challenge to find a spot in the Bayon and in Angkor Wat with no people around.

The other temples we visited on Day 1 were not as large but were impressive in their own way. Ta Keo, Banteay Kdei, and Pre Rup offered up some find examples of Khmer architecture and nice views of the jungle from the top. I'm not sure if the ancient Khmers had tiny feet and long legs but given the way the steps are constructed I think the people were shaped that way. Some scenes from Tomb Raider were shot at Ta Prohm, which is overgrown with massive trees that literally have crushed or grown into the temple walls. The trees are as tall as buildings so it's no wonder that they'd be able to knock out or at least weaken the structural integrity of the walls. We tried to watch the sunset from the top of Pre Rup but it was too cloudy and we also realized that it would merely be a sunset over the jungle (no other temples were in sight) so we started cycling back before it became really dark.

Sunrise Over Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Royal Palace, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh quickly reminded me of the Royal Grand Palace in Bangkok. The comparisons are easy to see. The architecture of the buildings and the layout of the site are quite similar. One striking difference is the ubiquitous use of the serpent statue, a common element in ancient Khmer temples. The best part of the Royal Palace is in its symbolism - devotion to the King and to the prosperity of the nation. It stands as a strong testament that the country has recovered from the devastating reign of the Khmer Rouge.

Like the Palace in Bangkok, moderate dress is enforced. No exposed knees or shoulders on both men and women. I made the mistake of wearing a tank top and had to go back to my guesthouse to get a shirt, although there are tshirts for sale right next to the ticket booth. The admission fee is 6.25 USD and it's closed for lunch daily.

The Finest Beach in Cambodia

Sokha Beach

Sihanoukville is Cambodia's beach holiday destination. And while the beaches here aren't as famous as those in Thailand or Vietnam, they are still worth going to. There are several beaches in Sihanoukville but Sokha beach is easily the most beautiful. The sand is soft and makes a pleasant sound when you walk on it. The water is very still and is practically a swimming pool since it remains shallow for a quite a ways. And best of all, it's a very short walk from the Golden Lion traffic circle!

Sunset Over Mui Ne, Vietnam

Hanoi's Old Quarter

Hanoi's old quarter is a maze of streets where you can buy just about anything. There's bags street, sunglasses street, clothing street...you get the idea. It's also the main tourist area and is home to many guesthouses, hostels, and hotels. It can be a challenge crossing the street but the most important thing is to not stop! Walk at a steady pace and don't make any sudden moves, the motorbikes will go around you. The rail station is about 1.5 km away from the old quarter and is quite easy to find if you have a map; don't be fooled into getting a tuk tuk for the 20 min walk.

It's worth wandering around the old quarter for an hour or 2, walking down the narrow streets and experiencing the energy of the city. Things are full speed ahead in Vietnam and there's not better place to witness than in Vietnam's two biggest cities, Hanoi and Saigon.

A Quick Glimpse of Saigon

Chinatown, Saigon

Thien Hau Pagoda, Chinatown, Saigon

Notre Dame Cathedral, Saigon

Traffic in Saigon

Uncle Ho and Mao at the War Remnants Museum

The Mekong Delta Tour

This menu appears less than ecological to me.

The 1 day Mekong Delta tour isn't worth your time. Trust me. It's a 1.5 hr drive from Saigon to the Mekong Delta, followed by riding a boat across the delta to a couple of islands set up for tourists where they try to sell you honey, pollen, coconut candy, traditional music cd's, handicrafts, traditional alcohol, and all sorts of exotic meat. The only time we weren't being sold something was when we were in transport on the bus, on the boat, and when we went for a short 20 minute cycling ride on the last island. The included lunch was white rice, a few pickled vegetables, bland vegetable soup, and a small (~25gram) piece of lightly fried and salted pork. It was the second worst meal I had in all of Vietnam. I only had one other horrible meal and that was at a highway rest stop where I got a really dodgy pork sandwich which left a bad taste in my mouth for hours. Seriously, save your 8USD (we paid 7.5USD at Eraviet Travel because we were a group of 5) and find something else to do.

Mui Ne - Beaches and Sand Dunes!

The traditional fishing village of Mui Ne

Since we survived the Sapa motorbike ride we rolled the dice and hired another motorbike to drive out to the sand dunes around Mui Ne. This time however, I donned a bandanna over my face and sunglasses in addition to the helmet so that I looked like a local, which some people thought I was till I took off my helmet and unleashed the hawk. The roads around Mui Ne are mostly flat and in good condition so I felt pretty comfortable on the road. The weather was surprisingly nice today and there were actually some people out on the beach; this time of year is not the best time to come to the beaches of Vietnam. It normally rains everyday and the sea is quite rough this time of year.

The traditional fishing village of Mui Ne

We drove east a few km and came upon the traditional fishing village of Mui Ne. There were loads of boats docked in the harbor so we stopped off and took some photos from the road and along the beach before moving on towards the sand dunes.

Red Sand Dunes, Mui Ne

As we drove further east the road ran along the coastline and culminated in beautiful pristine beaches and the sounds of waves breaking upon them. I was driving at nearly 75kph so I only took a few glances so as to not kill myself. The red sand dunes are about 5km east of the main drag in Mui Ne Beach and make for a lovely place to picnic, walk around, or slide down the dunes. At sunset and sunrise they make for great photos but considering the overcast rainy weather I don't think there'll be any good sunrises or sunsets. We tried to hire a sand sled but the local boys renting them wouldn't budge on price (40000VND) so we skipped on it.

Noodle soup with fresh squid. Unbelievably good!

After taking lunch at a restaurant across the street we drove onward to the white sand dunes. We both ordered noodle soup with squid which was really fresh and delicious. It was quite possibly the best noodle soup I've had in all of Vietnam so far. And the daughter of the family running the place was adorable and loved being photographed.

Adorable!

White Sand Dunes, Mui Ne

The white sand dunes weren't exactly white but they were really cool nonetheless. There's a big lake fronting the dunes as you drive up along the dangerous dirt road. We nearly had a few accidents as we drove along the road due to the mud and large rocks on the road. I was definitely of the tourists who ponied up for a jeep to take them to the dunes. The road eventually got the best of us as we got stuck in some sand and crashed. Well, it was more like we came to a complete stop and tipped over. But it still counts as a crash. Thankfully we fell into a very soft patch of sand and we both came away unscathed.

w00t!

We walked up to the top of the sand dunes, took a bunch of photos, and took in the lovely views. It was a really peaceful place and we enjoyed spending some time there. But soon the rain started coming down again so we started to head back. I did a better job of navigating the sand dune road this time resulting in zero crashes. We got pretty lucky earlier to have fallen into a soft patch of sand. It was pissing down rain the entire time as we drove back to town but we made it back safely and in one piece!