Hampi, India to Bangkok, Thailand - Sep 2010

This was probably the longest journey of my travels. Originally I was hoping to travel from India to Thailand overland, but unfortunately the military junta in Myanmar (Burma) doesn't allow for that. The only other possible overland route would require me to backtrack through Tibet and then cross the dodgy China - Laos border. I don't like to backtrack so I had to rule out that route as well. I sucked it up and bought a flight from Chennai (Madras) to Bangkok via Colombo on Sri Lankan Airways for about 170USD. Chennai is located on the east coast of India and Hampi is quite far away.

To get to Chennai I started walking from my guesthouse in Hampi to the bus park at around 6pm. Luckily a bus was already loading up and about to leave. That walk took about 10 minutes. The ride from Hampi to Hospet was another 40 minutes and luckily for me the bus attendant didn't bother to collect my fare even though I was ready to pay him. After arriving in Hospet, the walk to the rail station took about 30 min down the main road, a distance of about 2km. My overnight train to Bangalore (Bengaluru) was delayed a bit but thankfully wasn't too late. I had another train to catch from Bangalore to Chennai in the morning.

When the train arrived I didn't have a reserved bed so I ended up sharing a bed (class AC3) with a very large Indian guy. Other than it being uncomfortable since the beds aren't made for 2 people (let alone 2 very big men) I really didn't mind since I can pretty much fall asleep anywhere. He had a great idea and went to go sleep on the floor but in exchange for his sacrifice he took all the bedding and pillow. I improvised with what I had in my daypack and used my waterproof as a pillow. Luckily the train attendant came by later on and got me a fresh bedding set. I met some interesting people on the train such as some Chinese businessmen and their Indian counterpart in the granite trade. It also turns out they also were making the same connection to Chennai.

In Bangalore I had about 1 hour to kill before boarding the train to Chennai. I splurged and got a reserved seat in the aircon carriage. The only other option was to ride in the human cattle car which I would've done if I were carrying a smaller pack but after the already long journey I didn't want to squeeze into an overstuffed rail car. I promptly fell asleep once the train got started on the 6 hour journey to Chennai. Luckily I did wake up in time to eat and got my last taste of the surprisingly delicious and very cheap food for sale on the train. The India Rail company also has a massive catering arm which serves up fresh hot meals at the stations and on the train.

From Chennai Central Station I walked over to the backpacker area called Egmore with the help of my compass and map which I saved onto my mobile. I should also note that I haven't showered since yesterday morning and I've already done quite a bit of walking while carrying over 20kg. Oh and it's summertime...in southern India. It took me some time but I finally found the post and sent out some postcards which I had been too lazy to send out in the past couple of weeks. Once I got that sorted I enjoyed my last 2 Kingfishers and then took the local train to the airport. I think the fare was like 10 rupees (appx 0.20 USD). I had a lovely chat with a local guy on the train who worked for the military. The friendliest people I've met in India have been on the trains and interestingly enough, many of them have been military personnel.

The Chennai airport is definitely on the disorganized side. Not quite chaotic, but definitely not very organized. First off, I had an e-ticket but to get into the airport they wanted to see a printout of the ticket. Seriously, what's the point of an e-ticket if I have to print it out? After a bit of discussion, I had the security guy check the passenger manifest and showed him my passport, then he let me in. Next up was trying to check-in. The staff had no idea when the check-in opened nor where I should check in. They kept pointing me to the wrong queue. I got fed up with their stupidity and found the correct check-in area on my own. This confusion could've been avoided had there been proper signs posted...but it's India.

After getting through that mess I finally got to the immigration desk. The officer looked at my passport for a while and said he couldn't find my entry stamp. I found it for him and pointed it out to him. He then asked me where the port of entry is even though it's clearly stated on the entry stamp. I said "Sonauli" and he asked me where that is. After explaining to him how I entered the country via the India - Nepal border and pointing out all the details on the stamp including the handwritten entry date he finally stamped me out. I'm still not sure to this day whether he was an idiot or he was looking for a bribe.

The rest of the journey went smoothly. I arrived in Sri Lanka for my layover and made use of the free internet kiosks till I boarded my flight for Bangkok. The airport in Colombo is one of the nicest I've ever been in. Really really nice. I, on the hand, was really really filthy after having traveled for so long on the Indian public transport network without a shower. It doesn't happen often that I can actually smell myself, but today was one of those days. The plane landed in Bangkok on time and then after weaving through the heavy Bangkok traffic I finally arrived at my hostel in Silom around 10 or 11am. It was a long 2 days and rarely has a shower felt so good!

Numbers Numbers Numbers

# of Days Traveling: 263
Highest altitude: 5416m above sea level at Thorung La Pass, Nepal
Lowest depth: 18m below sea level at Koh Tao, Thailand
Longest plane ride: 13hrs from San Francisco, USA to Seoul, South Korea
Longest bus ride: 24.5hrs from Vientiane, Laos to Hanoi, Vietnam
Longest train ride: 34hrs from Xi'an, China to Lhasa, Tibet
Most consecutive days without a shower: 3 during the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal
Longest time spent in one place: 2 weeks in Anjuna, Goa, India
Most consecutive benders: 4 in Koh Phangan, Thailand
Longest time in transit: appx 40hrs from Hampi, India to Bangkok, Thailand
Longest single day of trekking in km: 26km on the Abel Tasman Coast Track, New Zealand
Longest trek in days: 15 days for the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal
Fastest speed driving a motorbike: 90kph in Thailand
Fastest speed driving a car/van: 140kph in New Zealand
Consecutive days tubing in Vang Vieng: 2

Coincidence?

The day I flew into Christchurch on 5 Jan there was an earthquake which struck a few hours before I landed. It was a small one but everyone felt it. The day I left New Zealand on 22 Feb a massive earthquake struck Christchurch hours after I took off from Auckland. Strange coincidence?

Kuta, Bali, Indonesia

Kuta is backpacker central in Bali. It's a 15 min drive from the airport and has everything a traveler wants or needs. While the beach here is not the best it's a great place to learn how to surf. There are loads of board rental places right on the beach that offer surfing lessons. A lot of experienced surfers hit the waves here as well. In Kuta you're just as likely to run into an Australian as you are an Indonesian person. Flights to and from Australia are very cheap so there are loads of Aussies who holiday here. Because of the party atmosphere in Kuta all the young Aussies flock here. All the bars and nightclubs are full of Aussies who are busy getting drunk. Kuta is a good place to stay if you want to party but the rest of Bali has a lot more to offer.

Waiheke Island, New Zealand

Waiheke Island is a popular getaway for Aucklanders. It's a 35 minute ferry ride from Quay Street right along the harbor. The island's north shore boats several beautiful deserted beaches in addition to loads of wineries. Wine tasting tours are very popular. A return ferry + unlimited bus pass costs about 42 NZD. I went here for the day and spent most of my time over at Onetangi Beach, about 11km from the ferry terminal. The beach is picture perfect!

After some unsuccessful attempts at body surfing ( the wave breaks weren't really strong enough to do it right) we stopped at the beach cafe for a couple of cold beers and green-lipped mussels. These were the biggest mussels I've ever seen and surprisingly enough I was pretty full on just a dozen of them.

On the way back to the ferry we stopped off at the Saratoga Winery and had an express wine tasting for 5 NZD. It was express cause by the time we sat down we only had about 10 minutes till the next bus came along. If we missed that one we would have had to have waited about 1 hour for the next one. The tasting was good although because we did it so fast we couldn't savor the wines as much as we would've liked. Luckily for us we ran down the driveway and caught the bus we wanted and got to the ferry terminal in time for the sunset and the 8pm ferry back to the Harbour. The sunset was quite nice despite a low lying cloud coming in at the last moment. All in all a good day!

Ubud, Bali, Indonesia

Balinese Cultural Show

Ubud is located just over an hour from the airport in Denpasar (DPS) but it feels like a world away from the beaches of Kuta. Whilst it's firmly on the tourist trail in Bali in many ways it doesn't feel that way due to the laid back attitude of the people here. Yes there are lots of businesses catering to foreigners but at the same time it doesn't have the "too many tourists" feel that you get in a lot of places. One thing that is inescapable are the plethora of Balinese cultural shows available every evening. It's only when you attend these that you realize how touristy Ubud really is due to the makeup of the audience, however the cultural shows are actually really good.

Ubud itself is generally a very quiet town with a nearly non-existent party scene. We tried to seek out a party our last night there but there really wasn't one to be found. The main attractions here are the many Balinese cultural options and nearby natural attractions. We hired motorbikes and drove out to the nearby volcanoes and rice paddies located about 1 hour north of Ubud. The roads here are poorly signposted and it's very easy to get lost. Also, there are several police checkpoints so it's important to have an international driver's license. We got stopped at one point but somehow talked our way out of paying a "fine" or bribe. If you don't have an international driver's license but it's advisable to hire a driver since most people ending up paying fines. I would highly recommend exploring the area around Ubud, the scenery is incredible.

The vibe around Ubud is really relaxed and honestly I could've easily stayed there for a week. There are also loads of shopping and dining options in addition to an overwhelming number of art galleries. We generally ate at the cheaper restaurants off the main streets, which were significantly less than the main street ones. In summary, a trip to Bali wouldn't be complete without going to Ubud for at least a couple of days. 

A Quick Glimpse of Queenstown, New Zealand

The Remarkables (mountain range)

The beach

Paragliders

Rotorua, New Zealand

Rotorua lies in a very active thermal area. Within the town itself are several natural hot pools, many of them located in Kuirau Park on the west side of town. A large portion (over 30%) of the population here is Maori and that fact is evidenced by the plethora of Maori cultural show offerings. It's possible to see a cultural show at just about any time of the day and evening. The evening shows also include a traditional hangi meal but they generally cost about 100NZD. Hangi meals are cooked using the steam from the natural hot pools. I opted to go for the more "authentic" show at Whakawerarewa Village located about 2km from the town centre. It's a living village which offers up tours and a cultural show for about 30NZD. Their commercial neighbor Te Puia costs about 60NZD and has a more polished look but in the end the geysers are the same. You literally see the same set of geysers from both Te Puia and Whakawerarewa so in my opinion I made the right choice by going with Whakawerarewa. Rotorua also has loads of mud pool spas and mineral water spas but being on a budget I decided to save my money since they can get quite pricey.

Kuirau Park

Apologies to Beverly and Linh

If you two see this sorry that I didn't make it out yesterday! Unfortunately I had no way of reaching you. I remembered at the last moment that I had to meet a friend in the CBD at 8PM and ending up hanging out in CBD till late. Hope you two had a great time in Ponsonby!

Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is easily one of the best day walks in the world. You've probably seen its best known highlight Mount Ngauruhoe starring in the Lord of the Rings Trilogy as Mount Doom. But there's more to this walk than tracing Frodo's steps. Starting just above 1000m you're already in an alpine climate zone devoid of any large plants. As you steadily hike up even higher vegetation all but completely disappears and all you see is a beautiful alpine landscape. Looming in the distance is Mount Doom and Mount Tongariro.

About 1.5 hours into the walk the turnoff for the Mount Doom summit track starts. The hike up to the summit takes about 2 hours and there is no well formed track. You can follow in other's footsteps or do your own route finding. I found out later that it's best to stay to your left going up and coming down. At the summit you're treated to a large volcanic crater and stunning views if the sky is clear. The clouds flew through the valley really quickly so it's worth spending some time at the summit if have it. It's also worth it to walk around the summit at least halfway so that you can get a nice view of the Emerald Lakes. The path down requires you to almost slide down a steep side of the volcano. It's much easier than it looks so long as you let the loose volcanic ash take you down.

The next bit of the track is flat then starts going uphill to the Red Crater. From near here you can either summit Mount Tongariro or carry on to the Emerald Lakes. I didn't have enough time to do the Mount Tongariro sidetrip so I carried onto the lakes. The view from above the lakes is really stunning and the path down is really steep. It's another slide down loose volcanic ash which I was used to by now.

After the lakes you come across the Mount Ruapehu Crater Lake. It's worth it to stop here for a look back at the Red Crater and Mount Doom. If the sky is clear you can get an incredible view of them lined up. It's truly breathtaking. From here the track climbs a bit up to a rest hut then steadily decends down below the tree line to the end point. This bit accounts for nearly half the track and I didn't find it nearly as interesting as the first half so I practically ran through it. The buses generally give you 8 hours to do the walk, which, if you walk quickly, is just enough time to summit Mount Doom and finish the track in time for your pickup.

Abel Tasman National Park, New Zealand

Abel Tasman National Park is the most popular national park in all of New Zealand based on the number of visitors annually. The main draw are the excellent secluded beaches and range of outdoor activities available. The most popular of which are kayaking, tramping, and camping. The park is located about 1.5 hours from Nelson and there are numerous tourist buses waiting to take you there and back. Since I'm not much of a kayak person I opted to do the Coast Track. I arranged a water taxi to take me from the nearest town of Marahau to the beach Tonga. Since I had a car I had all day to do the walk from Tonga to the carpark at Marahau, a total distance of about 26km.

The track itself is mostly flat with a few hills and hugs the coast. I stopped off at just every beach and took a quick dip into the cool water which was really great after getting sweaty from tramping. The water this time of year is approximately 20C, which is really refreshing. The water taxi dropped me at Tonga at 10:30AM and got back to the carpark in Marahau at around 7:00PM. I could've gotten back sooner but I took my time at each beach soaking up some sun, enjoying the cool seawater and taking in the incredible views. All in all it was a great day and I would highly recommend a visit to anyone who's going to New Zealand's South Island.

Kaikoura, New Zealand

Kaikoura is a beautiful little town on the east coast of the South Island of New Zealand. The road into and out of the town hug the rugged eastern coast and has some very sharp turns. The town is famous for its abundant wildlife. There are several seal colonies within a few km of the town centre, all easily accessible by road. The main activities are whale watching via sea and air, swimming with dolphins, and swimming with seals. Since the former 2 are really expensive, I went for the seal swim (70NZD). It started with a quick drive to the seal colony then we walked along the coast to another colony and went into the water armed with snorkels, fins, and very thick wetsuits. The seals were very playful and warmed up to us immediately. They were zipping around us and were just as curious with us as we were with them.

The one thing in Kaikoura that is a must-do is the Peninsula Track. It's a 2-4 hour return walk from the town centre. It's a very easy walk and the views you get are simply stunning. If it's a clear day it'd be a shame to not do it.